2021 United States – Legs and Feets

More Broken Spokes on the way to Flagstaff AZ May 26, 2021

Temperatures 43-75 Wind 5 mph SSW. Ash Fork to Flagstaff AZ. 52 miles from Ash Fork to Flagstaff.

At 3:30 we woke to see the lunar eclipse. The moon was to be in full eclipse with the earth between the sun and moon causing it to go dark and later red “blood moon”. Unfortunately it was cloudy and we just saw a hint of the moon through the clouds. Sorry no photos of the dark sky. Back to bed and a welcomed extra two hours sleep.

The route today is mostly on Interstate 40. In the past traffic was lighter in the morning along with the desire to do the 2,000 foot climb in cooler temperatures we wanted to get an early start. So up at sunrise and with a package of instant oatmeal in our tummies it was time to hit the road. Traffic on the I 40 was quite heavy and the six foot shoulder was comforting. The shoulder dose accumulate shredded tires, bolts, pieces of vehicles, broken bottles, and other nasty stuff. Most of this junk can be avoided but the bicycle traveler must always be aware of potential falls caused by the junk. The biggest problem most travelers incounter are the small “wiskers” picked up from steel belted tires. These little wires can even work their way through the best puncture proof tires.

About 10 miles out of town Feets heard a tell tale sound of a loose spoke. At every rotation of the wheel she could hear a “Ting . . . Ting” sound. Stopping we notice a second spoke had borken on the back wheel. This spoke was much easier to replace and there was no need to remove the tire or disk break. When any spoke breaks it is improtant to do a quick check of all spokes to assure tightness. There is no way I could check for the proper tention but just making sure the spokes feel close to tight is important. Several other spokes needed readjustment.

Replacing broken spoke. We always carry extra spokes.

This was a quick fix and the bike was packed and ready to travel in no time. Another 10 miles and the first off ramp to Williams. It was about 11:00 and that first breakfast oatmeal at 6:00 A.M. had not lasted long enough. The locals told us Goldies Route 66 Dinner on the east end of town was a good reasonably priced dinner. The cheese burger and onion rings were excellent.

Goldies Route 66 Cafe

Flagstaff is 30 miles away and with this stop a few days off visiting with family and a scheduled repair to the rear wheel spokes. About five miles out of town is the Arizona Summit at 7,335 feet then down hill to Flagstaff.

Finely Arizona Summit 7335 ft.

The RoadKill Cafe May 25, 2021

Temperatures 44-81, traffic mostly light, roads mostly good but with expansion cracks, 51 miles from Grand Canyon Caverns to Ash Fork.

Grand Canyon Caverns Motel

With the climb into Williams it was probably not possible for us to ride the 80 miles from the Caverns to Williams. Nor was it long enough to just ride the 36 miles into Seligman. The best option for us was to head to Ash Fork known as the Flagstone capital of the world. Unfortunately when the train moved it tracks north and I 40 bypassed to the south there are few services left in Ash Fork.

Before leaving the Grand Canyon Caverns Motel we did enjoy the Dino Sulptures and Radiator Springs gas station. Like many towns in this country the tourist attractions usually included themes from the Cars movie.

Grand Canyon Caverns- Radiator Springs

Because the motel restaurant was closed we had our bag of instant oatmeal and hit the road hoping for a breakfast at Seligman 36 miles away. Riding on the old Route 66 there were a few vehicles that passed but traffic was light which made riding in the road to avoid the shoulders pressure seams.

As a pleasent distraction the highway department set up intermittent signs with a few words on each ending in a punch line on the second to last sign. Most sayings were about driving the speed limit or paying attention to the drive. All ended with a Bermia Shave sign.

Berma Shave information Signs

The first restaurant we found in Seligman was the Roadkill Cafe another Route 66 iconic restaurant. It was fun. Feets ordered the BBQ wings and I went with a more traditional eggs/pancakes/bacon option. The wings were great but a little spicy but I should learn that noon time pancakes are often crusty and flat.

Roadkill Cafe

Seligman is definately a Route 66 themed town with old cars parked down town and mannequins staged to look like 60’s tourists.

Route 66 continues on its original route off the interstate. Again the traffic was light so it was easy to continue riding on the highway and off the bumpy shoulders. When a car was sighted Feets would tap me on the right rib and I would move to the shoulder. Of course we both have rear view mirrors and we check them often. With the open and long straight stretches it is easy to see vehicles a few miles back.

About 6 miles west of Ash Fork the route entered I 40 and of course traffic was greatly increased but again a wide shoulder provided plenty of room.

In Ash Fork the only motel available in town was $39. tax included so no WiFi and a room that smells of cigeratte smoke. The only store in town was a Family Dollar and only restaruant open was the Ranch House Cafe. We went and purchased water for the next days ride and Frabreze for the smokey room at the Family Dollar and dinner at the Cafe.

Long Windy Climb to Grand Canyon Caverns, May 24, 2021

Highs in mid 80, winds gusting to 15 mph ssw. Kingman to Grand Canyon Caverns 65 miles.

While replacing the broken spoke last night I pinched the tube. The spare in the saddle bag had a hole near the stem and probably a factory defect. Both punctures were difficult to repair. Fortunately there was one extra tube in our kit. Since the two poorly patched tubes probably would fail if and there were no spares we decided to wait until Bicycle World the only bike shop opening on Monday. After buying the last two 700cc x 35 mm tubes from World Bicycles we were on our way.

Our savior World Bicycle sold us tubes

This section was off Interstate 44 and along the old Route 66. We passed Valle Vista and Antares both having gas stations but we decided to stop at the Hackberry gas and minimart for a snack. Feets struck up a conversation with one of the locals but I think the conversation was a little onesided.

Hackberry Gift Shop and MiniMart

The next 24 miles had no services traveling through Valentine and Truston but the traffic was light.

Nice roads

We were very happy we brought a gallon of water.

Extra Gallon of water came in handy

Our stop for dinner was at the Hualapai Resort which had a restaurant and enjoyed fried chicken and pie for dinner. We are glad we did. There was no cell service and we were able to use the WiFi in the restaurant to secure a motel room at Grand Canyon Caverns Motel. We were also glad because the restaurant at the Caverns was closed. The distance between Peach Springs and Grande Canyon Caverns is only ten miles but during the day we climbed 3,193 feet with frequent head winds so we were tired.

Oatman to Kingman for a Rest Day May 22 and 23, 2021

At Oatman, AZ May 22, 2021 Temp mid 80’s, wind gusts to 20 mph from N, 37 miles from Oatman to Kingsman AZ.

It was a beautiful clear morning to wake to the sweet sound of the morning dove singing it’s “coo-OO-coo”. As a child I often heard the morning song of these doves and once asked an Ornathologist, “What owl made that sound.” The Ornathologist explained the “Hoot HOOOT hoot” sound I was hearing is not that of an owl but a morning dove. Have passed that information to many children asking about the morning owl they hear.

Early to rise headed to Oatman

Riding a short distance up the road we arrived in Oatman AZ, about 7:00 before the crowds arrived but after the restaurant opened. Shop owners were busy sweeping the donkey dung from the streets and off the boardwalk, the donkey’s were calling out for their morning cubes of hay, and the smell of bacon was calling us to the Oatman Hotel and Restaurant.

Headed to Oatman Hotel and Cafe for Breakfast

The Oatman Hotel does not rent rooms but they do give tours of the old hotel and the Restaurant is serving to a bustling business. The old miners got paid they in turn would pay their bar tab with signed dollars. Not sure if this was to prove they paid but it is a custom carried forward and most people traveling through add to the collection. We had an old 5 pound note from England we added to the pile writing LegsandFeets above the Queen of England’s head.

Oatman Cafe with Dollars Stapled to Walls

The town of Oatman was named after Olive Oatman (1837-1903). In 1851 her family was attacked by the Apachies near the Gila River in Arizona. Olive and her sister Mary (later killed) were captured, enslaved and her chin tattooed. She was eventually ransomed at Fort Yuma AZ for a horse, blanket and beads in 1856.

Olive Oatman for Whom the Town was Named

The town of Oatman is very proud of their wild burro population. The burros were abandoned by early miners and have established a herd now protected by Federal Law. The only place you can feed the burros is in town and most shops sell hay six pellets for a few dollars. Here is a photo of feets posing with the burros.

Not so Wild Donkeys in Oatman

It was time to leave to tackle the five mile climb to Sitgraves Pass elevation 3550. Starting the climb that chilli omlet and coffee started to way heavy on my tummy. A stop along the road with a short rest in the shade to digest the food was needed before I could ride any further. Along the route we have been finding hidden painted rock art. Eventhough this cute hedge hog was in a fairly innocuous spot along the road.

After our short stop it was back on the bike and up the hill. There is a gold mine three miles up the road and at this spot the road becomes steeper. We slowed to 3 mph meaning stearing was tough and with all the traffic decided to just push to the top.

Pushing Bike up to Sitgraves Pass. With Donkey in Lead.

Riding from Sitgraves Pass down to Cold Springs we did not worry about passing traffic. The Cold Springs Gas Station is really a tourist stop with plenty of Route 66 trinkets to buy. Cold Springs is made famous in the movie Cars.

Much of the scenery around Cold Springs was used as a back drop for the town of Radiator Springs. After enjoying the items to purchase and sitting down with a ice cream and skittle brickle we moseyed over to the rock shop. Local crafts people were selling geodes, agate, jaspers etc. They collect many of the samples locally and finish them. At one point they pulled out a Fire Agate and handed it to Feets as a gift.

Semi-precious Gem Collectors Displaying Their Sierra Agate

The remaining 26 miles to Kingman was relatively easy but with sections heading into the wind I would not say were easy. Riding into town we found a Rambling Rose Motel. That night we decided to spend the night and enjoy the next day sightseeing around Kingman.

On Sunday we headed to the Hot Rod Cafe for breakfast and later to the grocery and later dinner at Mr. D’s Route 66 Diner for a deep fried chicken.

During the day Feets said she heard a clicking sound. After checking all the nuts and bolts on the bike the culprit was found, a broken spoke. After distroying a tube getting the tire removed I discovered it was a drop rim and could easily remove the tire if I had only squeezed the tire to the center of the rim.