Local weather agencies confirmed northern Italy and southern France were in the middle of a heat wave with temperatures in the tripple digits. Again we decide to leave town early before temperatures and traffic get unbearable. We also knew this last section was about 325 miles and we needed to be on the train from Marseille to London by July 5th.
We left Genoa early on June 26. Genoa is a tricky town to get around without riding on the main roads. If we used Google Maps we often ran into stairs very difficult to navigate on a bike packed with pannier.
The first day we ride 50 miles in temperatures over 100 degrees. We were beat by early noon and found an Air B&B in Finale Ligure. The nights stay was a short ride up a steep hill north of town. Nobody was at the Air B&B however we were able to download the critical information like WiFi password. After some trials and errors finding a hot spot we were able to contact the owner of the property. They spoke poor English and our Italian was no better but eventually we found our door and the key to access the room. Thank goodness there was air conditioning in the room because it was very hot.
On June 27 we rode around 45 miles and again the temperatures were over 100 degrees.
We made it to Sanramo and decided we needed to stop for the night.
It is the morning of June 28. It will be a big day because we cross the boarder from Italy into France into Monaco and back to France. We leave the motel at 5:00 A.M. again to beat the heat and traffic.
We rode into France at 6:30 A.M. through light traffic.
We cross the border into Monico at 7:11 A.M.
We found this wonderful pastry place for breakfast.
Monico is a country that appears to be all city down town was full of casinos and high end shopping.
The roads were very crowded. We needed to do two things while here. The first to purchase and send post cards for those who collect stamps. The second to get our passports stamped at the tourist office. This meant staying in town for the appropriate offices to open at 10:00 A.M.
By mid morning we rode west back into France. We were able to find a motel at Villeneuve-Loubet, France 45 miles from last nights motel.
June 29 was expected to be another hot day so yes we awoke early and tried to head out the door. Unfortunately our door would not open. It was locked and we were not able to unlock it. The motel we were staying was not like most motels with a phone to call the front desk.
Legs crawled out the bathroom window. Still no luck opening the door so all of our gear went out the window followed by Feets. We needed to notify the manager so we banged on the managers door until she got up. Speaking very little English we gave her the room keys and showed her the locked door and open window.
About six in the morning we stopped in Cannes for a breakfast.
For most of our trip we have used EuroCycle while still reviewing RideGPS and Google Maps for possible alternate routes. Today we found a shorter bike trail on Google maps that would reduce our miles and get us off the main highway. So at La Napoule we headed for the hills and away from the coast. The first few miles were wonderful on paved back roads and away from traffic. We entered a park area closed to cars. The paved road soon turned to dirt. The dirt road soon turned to a washed out trail and finely the trail disappeared. Damn Google Maps this is not the first time they lead us down a rabbit hole. Well back down to the coastal road we ride.
After riding 53 miles with a temperature of 103 degrees F. we were glad to make it to our campground at Camping Les Mures a right on the beach. We went for a swim in the Mediterranean Sea tonight.
On June 30 we got up early again to avoid the heat. Heading west we rode to Toulon. Today we rode inland and up into the hills to see some nice shrubland.
We were glad we left early when we crossed a 630 foot pass at 7 in the morning.
We found a motel that normally is a college dorm during the school year. It had no air conditioning and the rooms were very uncomfortable. They had interesting bathrooms. You would enter the stall with toilet and shower when you left the door locked and the entire bath cubical was washed clean automatically.
Early morning on the first of July we left early to avoid the heat. This was the last leg of our journey into Marseille.
We arrived in Marseille early noon and found a relatively inexpensive motel called City Residence Marseille. Again they had no air conditioning and when we asked they said the temperature seldom is high enough to need air conditioning.
The morning of 2 July we did not get up early. The most important job today was to find bike boxes and pack our tandem for the trip to England. We took the bus into town and found a local bike shop that was very happy to unload two boxes. Headed home we got on the bus and waited for the driver to return from break. On the way into the bus Legs noticed the destination on the bus was not where we wanted to go so went out to ask another driver if it was the correct bus. Well as soon as Legs turned around the bus Feets was on with the two boxes, took off. Oops we had no way to communicate and nether one of us was familiar with the bus and tram schedule. Fortunately nobody panicked Feets got off at the correct stop and Legs caught the next bus and later met her at the correct stop.
With the bicycle packed it is time for a little play. July 2 to the 5 and we had Marseille to enjoy.
We caught the ferry to the Chateau d’If fort built in 1529 to protect the city of Marseille. Some historians think since the French just won control over Marseille that the fort was actually built to be used against Marseille if its citizens revolted. The fort became the setting of Alexandre Dumas’ book The Count of Monte-Cristo. It is the prison where Dantes and the priest met. They even named labeled his cell.
The most visited place in Marseille is the Notre-Dame de la Garde (Our Lady of the Guard) completed in 1864. This church is on the highest hill in Marseille. It was originally a fort and lookout and in 1302 Charles II of Anjou ordered beacons on the site. In 1214 a chapel was constructed and later an abby. The belfry supports a 37 foot statue of the Madonna and Child gilded with Gold. Sailors who survived from shipwrecks gave thanks and deposited ex-votos, donations to Saints.
The Museum of Civilizations of Europe and the Mediterranean is right on the bay by the old harbor fort. Displays included historic models of battle and merchant ships, collection of livestock bells, agricultural tools, and one of our favorite displays artisan bread.
Sad day our three months in the EU was coming to the end of our Visa time so it was time to head home. Feets wanted to travel the English Channel Tunnel so instead of flying we hoped a train to England for another few days of exploration. With the bike and our un-necessary supplies packed in boxes we headed for the high speed train to England.
Legs and Feets 